Welcome back, fellow travellers. Just a suggestion, if you wish to read these posts in some sort of order, I suggest you go from the top of the map to the bottom as I have in writing them. The Empire Builder is the route at the very top of the United States, so that is the reason I started with that one. Next comes The California Zephyr, which runs roughly across the middle of the western US and if it’s epic scenery you’re after, this is the route for you. With the longest daily service in the country, it travels some 2,438 miles in 52 hours, that’s 2 full days plus, and covers the full gamut of topographical settings. You will be treated to such incredible sites as the Upper Colorado River, the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the Rocky Mountains, along with awe-inspiring desert landscapes and, of course, the vast prairies of the Great Plains. I will begin our journey once again in the ‘‘Crossroads of America,’’ Chicago. Having travelled this route from both directions, I don’t find it makes any great difference in the ‘‘timing’’ for viewing the wondrous sites we’ll find along this route. For example, we go through Salt Lake City in the late evening/early A.M., no matter which direction we are travelling from. Denver and the Rockies of Colorado will be in the daylight hours, no matter the direction of travel. So, off we go from Chicago, and we find ourselves very quickly in the vastness of the Illinois prairies and their cultivated fields interrupted only by farms and small forested areas. As we arrive at Burlington we will cross the Mighty Mississippi and find ourselves in the land where the West truly begins. Onward we roll across Iowa’s fertile land, flat as far as the eye can see. Let your imagination carry you back in time 150 years and try to imagine living among field after field of corn with your nearest neighbour several miles away. This is one of the greatest things about train travel for me; all I really need to pack is my imagination. If you have read any of my other writings, you will know that I grew up in Nova Scotia. Canada’s second smallest province. You cannot go more than 50 miles in one direction without hitting saltwater. Our neighbours, while being spread out among tiny communities, were always within sight. Our schools, merchants, churches, and hospital were for the most part within walking distance. Imagine, these people had no services at hand. They were responsible for putting whatever they wanted to eat on the table. Different seasons meant different eating habits. Summers of plenty, prayerfully and winters of near starvation. The infant mortality rate would have been approximately 10-15%, hospitals were for the ‘‘town-folk’’. I try my best to write in my journal daily but with the advent of Google Timeline and similar apps, I can miss a few days or make short notes and take my old, sweet time when I get home and bring it up to date. Actually, I make this a winter chore, it’s a terrific way to pass some cold, dark, winter afternoons/evenings with the added bonus of being able to relive my travels. Around Osceola, IA, we lose the light, so it’s time to update our journals or head up to the Lounge Car for a chance to start a conversation with a fellow traveller. This is another one of the many benefits of travelling by rail; it’s a chance to discover other people’s stories and find out about life in another part of the continent. I think what intrigues me the most is the number of foreign travellers I meet. People come from all over the world to do the same thing that I am doing. I’ve met folks from England, Scotland, France, Germany, Australia, and New Zealand. They always marvel at the size of this country and the myriad differences in the landscape as they travel from east to west and north to south. Most, like myself, have taken advantage of Amtrak’s incredible US Rail Pass. It would be similar to the ‘‘Euro Pass’’ that they have in Europe, which has many deals available to the price-wary explorer. I am hoping to do a similar tour of Italy next year and will be taking advantage of either the EurRail or Trenitalia Passes. Unlike the US and Canada, the countries of Europe have rail passes available that enable travel from one country to another.
Before we bed down for the night, we will arrive in Omaha, NE and cross the Platte River, a stopping place for wagon trains making their way west back in the 19th century. This was a hub for the Oregon, California and Mormon Trails and a last chance to stock up before heading into what was then the Great Unknown. It’s also a last chance for some fresh air as we’ll stop for 15-20 minutes, perhaps for a Crew change. Hopefully, you’ll have had a peaceful rest, as the train’s gentle motion, most of the time, rocks you to sleep and wake up refreshed just as we are pulling into the Mile High City, Denver, CO. Here, we will have a close to an hour stopover. If you did a little homework and Google Mapped Denver and have a bit of the daredevil spirit as I do (of course, you do, or you wouldn’t be reading this), then you have the perfect opportunity to do a little exploring around the station. Always keep in mind, though, when you get feeling adventurous, ‘‘the train waits for no one’’. Be sure to ask an Attendant before disembarking how long the train will be here and make sure to be back on it with 5 minutes to spare. I have witnessed people being left behind, so unless you wish to spend unexpected money for a Hotel room for however long it will be until the next train comes along, (some routes, although not this one, do not provide daily service, so you could end up being stuck in an unplanned for place for 2-3 days) get back on your train in time.
So now we’re heading into the Rockies, get your camera ready. From here through to Salt Lake City, we will be moving through the mountains and catching some of the most beautiful landscapes that you’ve ever witnessed. Just before we crest our first mountain around the Plainview area, take a look back to the East for a stunning view of the Great Plains stretching to the horizon. Over the next 50 miles, we go from an elevation of 5,690 ft. to 9,270 ft. and will go through 31 tunnels, including the 6.2-mile-long Moffat Tunnel. Look for the Winter Park ski fields, which can be seen on our left. We now begin to follow the beautiful canyons and swirling rapids shaped by the Fraser River. We skirt the river for the next several hours passing impressive rock cliffs, narrow valleys and mountain meadows. In one of these small meadows, practically in the middle of nowhere, there is a bright yellow schoolhouse, which stands out from the landscape like a lighthouse on an ocean rock. It’s the Tolland School House and was built in 1906. The local community recently refurbished it, and it now stands as a Historical Landmark. Soon, we connect with the Colorado River and will follow it for the next 230 miles. What a journey!! This stretch of our trip passes through Gore Canyon, with walls towering 1,000 feet above us and jaw-dropping rapids beneath us. Check out the vibrant red rocks of Red Canyon, followed by high cliffs for the 12-mile stretch after Dotsero. One of the things that makes this route the ‘‘Jewel’’ in the Amtrak fleet is the Attendants. The first time I came through, the chap on duty that day gave a running commentary all day long. I learned so much from him and to this day thank him for giving me the knowledge to go along with the splendour of this extraordinary country. Next up, my favourite place on Earth, Glenwood Springs. This is a little piece of paradise that God carved out of the Colorado Rockies. Not only is its beauty unsurpassed in any place I have found in this country, but it also offers a myriad of great activities for the adventurous soul. You can do a ‘‘jump off’’ here, and it certainly won’t be wasted. I have stayed twice for 24 hours each time, which is barely enough time to sample everything this little gem has to offer. The only downside of a stopover in Glenwood Springs is trying to fit all of the possibilities that are on offer here into a 24-hour period. To name just a few, there is the Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park, the Hot Springs Pool, Doc Halliday’s Gravesite and of course, its raw beauty. The scheduling of the California Zephyr is perfect for a 24-hour stay here. Heading west, the train arrives at approx. 2:36 P.M., heading east, it arrives at approx. 11:36 A.M., so either way, you have a full afternoon to explore this great little mountain town. In the morning, for those heading west, you have plenty of time to roam before your afternoon train arrives. Just a note of interest, check in with your Amtrak app as the train is often running behind schedule, which allows you even more time to browse. For those of you rock hounds out there, Glenwood Springs has several stores that specialize in crystals, and you’re sure to acquire some unique finds to add to your collection. Leaving Glenwood Springs we follow the Colorado River for about 2 hours before arriving in another beautiful mountain town, Grand Junction, CO. The Rim Rock Drive provides some awe-inspiring views and on the left hand side of the train the Colorado National Monument can be seen. As we continue west we pass through Redlands another beautiful setting full of stark rocky hills and tree lined river beds. The rich red colours of the sandstone cliffs harken us into Ruby Canyon as we get set to leave Colorado. We now pass through Green River, Utah. This town is situated at the northern entrance to the land of National Parks. Three of them are within easy driving distance: Arches, Canyonlands, and Capitol Reef National Parks. In fact on my last trip to this part of the country, I started my journey in Flagstaff, drove north-east to Monument Valley then north to Green River, west towards Sigurd then south back towards Arizona, ending back in Flagstaff. It took 2 days and was about the greatest adventure of my 71 years. The beauty of these stark, raw lands is so inspiring. I will be devoting an entire blog to that trip one day soon. Warning!, This is Butch Cassidy country, and many a train has been held up in the desolate rock-strewn valleys which provide ample spots for robber’s hideouts. It was near our next town of Helper that he and his gang got away with $7,000 in gold when they robbed the Pleasant Valley Coal Company. Next up, Provo, home to such celebrities as Donnie and Marie and Robert Redford owner of the Sundance Ski Resort also located here. It’s nightime now so we don’t get to see much of Provo or the next city on our route, Salt Lake City and the train doesn’t allow us much of a peek at this city which is a shame because I would have loved to have seen the Temple. Perhaps I’ll have to ‘‘jump-off’’ here one day. Daylight brings us to Winnemucca Nevada. Fun fact! Winnemucca is the town named in the first line of Hank Snow’s ‘‘I’ve Been Everywhere’’: ‘‘I was totin’ my pack along the dusty Winnemucca road.’’ I point this out for two reasons: 1-I love that song, 2-Hank’s a fellow Nova Scotian. Now we’re pulling into Reno, ‘‘The Biggest Little City in the world.’’ I ‘‘jumped-off’’ here on my first trip. Spent a night at Circus Circus and got to wander around in the evening, viewing all the lights and the sights. Didn’t lose a cent, didn’t gamble, haha. Now we’re arriving in California at Truckee, which is surrounded by the beauty of the Sierra Nevadas. Truckee and Colfax share the same mountain air, which is amazingly fresh and crisp, especially after the heat of Reno. We’re dropping elevation quite quickly now and will soon be out on the flat land leading out to the Pacific. For now, though, with the sharp drop in altitude, we see rocky river canyons, perfect for rafting, fishing and bird watching. Sacramento, the capital of California, has a historically accurate Old Town, which I visited during my ‘‘jump off’’ here. It covers a couple of city blocks and has the feel of having stepped back into the late 1800’s. It also holds a great Train Museum. Although this route continues for another hour and a half to Emeryville, Sacramento is the hub for catching trains north and down through the middle of California. So here’s where we leave the California Zephyr, didn’t those two and a half days just fly by? The beauty of land along the way has been nothing short of spectacular. I hope you have enjoyed this trip and will make your dreams become a reality soon.
