Blog 1
Some highlights to get you interested
Take it from this 71-year-old who’s logged over 50,000 miles by rail.
If there’s one thing I’ve learned after five U.S. Rail trips, each spanning 3–4 weeks and racking up around 10,000 miles on each trip, it’s
this: You haven’t really seen the West until you’ve seen it from a train window.
Forget the stress of airports, those questionable roadside motels, or driving through an endless desert, wondering if the next gas station is 200 miles away. The train lets you kick back, relax, and watch the American West roll by—all while staying on a budget.
And if a 71-year-old can do 10,000 miles in a single trip and still climb off the train smiling, trust me… you can too.
Why Train Travel in the West Is Perfect for Budget Travellers.
- You can bring your own food and save money
- No airline-style cramped seats or having a child using the back of your seat to practice his soccer kicking skills.
- No security lines, no staff pawing through your bags and returning your luggage all messed up. Or confiscating your oversized shaving cream or contact lens solution.
No “middle seat” torture and no middle arm rests. As often as not while travelling throughout the West you might have the seat to yourself. This can be a Godsend at bedtime. Yes, I have learned how to have a full 6-8 hour sleep curled up on 2 seats. I have also learned how to sleep sitting up, not recommended for more than 2 days at a stretch. It sure makes your upcoming budget hotel room seem like a 5 star.
- Views you simply can’t get from the interstate. This one little feature is probably the biggest reason for my ‘‘riding the rails’’. Who remembers those 2-week family camping trips to some fabulous destination? I sure do, and if, like me, you had the privilege of doing all of the driving, you have no earthly idea what the rugged Atlantic coastline looks like, nor the snow-capped mountains of Appalachia or the majesty of the Rockies.
And unlike flying, you don’t arrive feeling like you’ve been folded, spindled, or mutilated.
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Amtrak has 5 major routes that cover the Western United States. They cover the areas from the Midwest to the Pacific. Three of these routes begin in Chicago and run more or less horizontally across to the Pacific. One route, The Empire Builder makes its way across the very top of the country and almost follows the 49th. Parallel ending up in either Seattle Wa. or Portland Or. your choice. Going from North to South, the next line is the California Zephyr which ends up in Emeryville, a sub-station to San Francisco. Next is the Southwest Chief, which travels in a mostly westerly direction and takes you all the way to Los Angeles. Then in the deep south city of New Orleans the Sunset Ltd. begins its travels to Los Angeles at times travelling right along the US/Mexico border. To make a complete circut around the western half of the country one needs only to board the famous ‘‘City of New Orleans’’ to travel from Chicago to New Orleans. In the west, the Coast Starlight sets off from Seattle Wa. and travels a southerly course right down to Los Angeles. So as you can see, the west is well covered and awaits your company. Just to note, the only 2 States not covered by Amtrak in the West are Wyoming and South Dakota. I am currently planning my 6 th. trip and will be spending this cold Canadian Winter trying to work out the easiest, cheapest, and most adventurous way to scratch these 2 off my list. I must admit that for me the planning is half the fun and makes the Winters fly by.
So just a quick recap of the routes:
Coast Starlight (Seattle → Los Angeles)***
Mountains, forests, beaches, and the Pacific Ocean right outside your window. If you time it right, you’ll see sunsets that look like they came from a painting.
California Zephyr (Chicago → Denver → SLC → Reno → Bay Area)***
This one? Pure magic. Rockies. Sierra Nevadas. Canyons. Snow. Sun. Mystery meat in the dining car. It’s the **bucket list** of Amtrak routes.
Empire Builder (Chicago → Glacier → Seattle/Portland)***
Want to see Glacier National Park without paying Glacier prices? Ride the Empire Builder and enjoy views of the park from the comfort of your seat.
Southwest Chief (Chicago → New Mexico → Arizona → LA)***
Red rocks, desert skies, and landscapes that look like Western movie sets.
Sunset Ltd.(New Orleans, Houston, Tucson, Los Angeles)
Prairie, flatlands, rugged mountain peaks, lush produce fields.
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**Great Budget-Friendly Stops Along the Way**
Glenwood Springs, Colorado***
⛰️🎶Listen to ‘‘Rocky Mountain High’’
Glenwood Springs isn’t just a stop—it’s an *experience*, and one of my absolute favourites.
I once hiked a **mile-long trail straight up a mountainside** to visit **Doc Ho
lliday’s gravesite**, and let me tell you, it’s a workout—but a fun one, and worth every breath-catching pause. But, honestly, I asked myself, who puts a graveyard on the side of a mountain? One look out across the green valley surrounded by red mountains, and I knew why.
For a different kind of adventure, when I stopped here next year, I took the **gondola up to Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park** and toured the **Fairy Cave**. Again, the views are just incredible. Quite the adventure for a 71-year-old with miles under his belt—and I’d do it again.
A stop in **Bullock’s Western Wear**, which hides a **free Doc Holliday Museum** on the bottom floor, is a must. Browsing through rows of western clothing while breathing in the rich smell of leather is, frankly, soul-healing. If you’re a **souvenir junkie** like me, walk two minutes from the Starlight Lodge and visit **Sioux Villa Curio**—give yourself at least 30 minutes.
The town itself has to be **one of the most beautiful in America**. It’s tucked between two red mountains with the Colorado River and a lush green valley running right through it.
If you’re coming from the East, the Zephyr arrives at **2:30 PM**; coming from the West, it gets in at **11:30 AM**—perfect timing for a full afternoon of exploring, followed by an invigorating stroll around this little piece of paradise the next morning before catching the train for your next venture.
I’ve stopped there twice and still haven’t seen it all. The famous **Hot Springs** are still waiting for me.
My go-to place to stay is the **Starlight Lodge**—a quaint little hotel with basic, affordable rooms, a friendly staff, and only about a **10-minute walk** from the Amtrak station and most attractions.
***Sacramento, California***
Sacramento offers another opportunity for a "jump-off" day-tripper experience. As the terminus for a couple of Amtrak's major routes, the **California Zephyr** and the **Coast Starlight** both pass through this historic city, giving you the chance to experience some of what it has to offer. The Sacramento Station is worthy of its own mention, another one of those Amtrak stations that put some museums to shame.
I stayed a night at the **Governor's Inn**, a reasonably priced 3-star hotel, a short Uber ride from the station. A nice **25-minute walk** from the hotel is the **Old Sacramento Historic Park**, a painstakingly accurate depiction of life in the 1800s. It's chock-full of historical memorabilia, with the **California State Railway Museum** nearby—a real treat for train lovers.
***Reno, Nevada***
Reno is everything you'd expect it to be. **\"The Biggest Little City in the World\"** is worth at least one overnight if only to see the lights. I stayed my one night at **Circus Circus**, for a very reasonable price. Could be an age thing, but the casinos didn’t really do it for me. I'm not really sure what I expected, but it was one of those, **\"oh, I have to do this at least once,\"** things. I did it, enough said. Las Vegas it's not. Still, if one does their homework and books their rooms well in advance, it makes for a pretty cheap stopover.
***Flagstaff, Arizona***
Funny story: I had spent the previous stop in Dodge City, where temperatures topped 100°F. When I arrived in Flagstaff, it was about 40–45°F, and I was wearing a light t-shirt and shorts. I live in Toronto, where early June temperatures are usually around 55°F, so I was not prepared for Flagstaff's high elevation and chillier temperatures, especially at night.
Temperatures aside, I had a marvelous time in Flagstaff and Northern Arizona. By booking ahead, I got a good deal on my room at the **Wyndham Super 8**. I rented a car from Enterprise for 2 days and even got an upgrade, thank you! The first day, I drove about an hour and a half to the **South Rim of the Grand Canyon**. OMG, what an amazing sight! Everyone should do this at least once in their lives. The geography of the area leaves your jaw on the ground—the Colorado Plateau stretches away forever as you descend from the Kaibab Plateau.
The next day, I drove 2 hours to the **Petrified Forest**, another incredible sight. There's a 27-mile loop that covers the park, featuring colorful, painted hills and desert landscapes. On the way back, I traveled the famous **Route 66**, stopping in **Holbrook** and **Winslow**, which still have 40s–60s era hotels, gas stations, and restaurants. Of course, no visit to Winslow is complete without having a friendly local take your picture while you're **\"standin' on a corner in Winslow, Arizona.\"**
I returned to Flagstaff the following year for a 5-day road trip into Utah, down to Sedona, then west to Kingman, and back to Flag (as locals call it, haha). More on that trip in a later blog.
***East Glacier Park/Shelby, Montana***
While I didn't get the opportunity to stop over in East Glacier Park due to cost and other travel priorities, I did go through it twice on repeat journeys, once in each direction. It really is a beautiful park and deserves a 2–3 day stopover to do it justice.
The first time I went through, I started my trip in Vancouver, BC. I took the Amtrak Bus to Seattle and boarded the **Empire Builder**, choosing to ride the train from there to see the Rockies in daylight—a marvelous journey with awe-inspiring sights at every turn.
To break up the 45-hour trip, I decided to get off and spend a day in **Shelby, Montana**. As the train pulled away, I questioned my judgment, seeing nothing but flat prairie in all directions. The lady at the station said my hotel was a 25-minute walk, which I tried to do with my full-sized suitcase and carry-on. I quickly ran out of steam, and after a second pick-up offered help, I finally accepted a ride from a kind lady who stayed to make sure I got to the **OYO Hotel** safely.
My stay was pleasant, and the money saved allowed for a nice meal—Chinese take-out, surprisingly good, which lasted me all the way to Chicago. Shelby, like many small towns, had seen many closures during Covid, but the locals were friendly and made the experience memorable.
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**How I Save Money on Train Travel**
- **Budget Tip #1:** The USA Rail Pass is a steal.
- **Budget Tip #2:** Coach class is perfectly comfortable.
- **Budget Tip #3:** Bring your own meals.
- **Budget Tip #4:** Travel midweek for quieter, cheaper trips.
**What to Expect Onboard**
- Plenty of legroom
- Observation car views
- Bring snacks to save money
- Outlets at every seat
- Wi-Fi is… let’s call it not reliable.
**Packing Tips**
- Snacks
- Refillable water bottle
- Light blanket
- Power bank
- A good book
- Comfortable clothes
- Eye mask
- A sense of humour
**Solo Travel by Train**
Sit near the observation car for easy conversation. Keep valuables close. Trust your instincts. Accept snacks when offered.
**Sample 7-Day Western Rail Itinerary**
Day 1–2: Coast Starlight — Seattle to Sacramento
Day 3: Explore Sacramento
Day 4–5: California Zephyr — Sacramento to Glenwood Springs
Day 6: Explore Glenwood Springs
Day 7: Southwest Chief — Flagstaff or Albuquerque
**Final Thoughts**
At 71, people ask why I still choose train travel.
Simple: **The rails let you experience the West in a way no other mode can.**
You see the land change slowly. You meet wonderful people. You arrive inspired.
Pack light, stay curious, and keep your eyes on the horizon.